Growing Olives in Southeast Queensland

Growing olives trees for fruit production in southeast Queensland can be a challenge but with a good understanding of the trees cultural requirements and careful variety selection quality yields can be obtained.

Throughout the world, the major olive growing regions are almost exclusively found in Mediterranean type climates that are characterised by a winter rainfall pattern, mild winter temperatures and hot dry summers. A Mediterranean climate is one that resembles those of the lands bordering the Mediterranean Sea. These climates generally occur on the western coasts of continental landmasses, roughly between the latitudes of 30° and 45° north and south of the equator.

In southeast Queensland we have a subtropical climate of warm winters with a summer rainfall pattern and high summer humidity. Although distinctly different to the Mediterranean climatic, as long as some basic requirements are met such as good soil drainage and adequate pest management, olive trees will generally grow well in region. Fruit yield, however, can be inconsistent unless a suitable variety is selected and steps are taken to manage the flowering and fruit set processes.

Variety selection

Some winter chilling is required for flower initiation. In general, growing many of the traditional olive varieties in areas that rarely frost during winter can be a fruitless exercise as there may not be enough winter chilling for the flower initiation processes to take place. Some of the more recently introduced varieties into Australia, however, are more adaptable to warmer climates and will fruit well under the prevailing conditions.

Arbequina Varieties which have shown to be the more consistent in their bearing habits in warmer climates include: Arbequina, Manzanillo Arecuzzo and Koroneiki.  Of these, Arbequina would be the standout as the most reliable bearer in warm climates. It is self-pollinating and bears when it is very young.  In a warm winter variety trial in southeast QLD, Arbequina produced an remarkable average yield of 18kg per tree after 3 yrs.

We suggest that growers who intend to plant olives in a warm climate, outside of the traditional climatic zones should regard the initial planting as a trial and not a commercial venture until varietal performance is proven.

Cross-pollination
Although most olive varieties are self-fertile to some extent, research has shown that cross-pollination improves the fruit set of most varieties especially when the environment conditions are not optimal.  Generally having two or three different varieties growing in close proximity (30m) will facilitate adequate cross-pollination.  Arbequina, Arecuzzo and Manzanillo are some of the main varieties used for cross-pollination in QLD. If a tree flowers well in the spring and does not set any fruit it may be good indication that cross-pollination is required.

Soil Moisture and Irrigation
Adequate soil moisture throughout winter and spring is essential to ensure good flowering and fruit set. In olive trees, the process of flower initiation and development starts in late autumn and continues through the winter. Under winter drought conditions, this process is disrupted, resulting in either poor flowering or an excess of malfunctioning flowers that prematurely drop without setting fruit.

If rainfall is inadequate, it critical that supplementary irrigation is applied throughout winter and spring. Conserving soil moisture by spreading mulch and managing grass and weeds around the trees is also important. Young olives trees are poor competitors. Weeds and grass in the root zone of the tree will stunt growth and out-compete the tree for water and nutrients.

Nutrition
Adequate levels of nutrients especially nitrogen and boron are required for optimal flowering and fruit set. A leaf analysis taken in mid summer will give a good indication of the trees nutritional status and fertiliser requirements. Generally olives require either manure or other fertiliser on an annual basis for good fruit set. Splitting fertiliser applications throughout spring (60%) summer (30%) and autumn (10%) is recommended for granular NPK fertilisers. Manure is best applied as mulch once a year in late summer or autumn. The benefits of applying fertiliser will be limited unless there is adequate soil moisture for nutrient uptake by the tree.

Applying boron and calcium to the trees as a foliar spray before bud burst will help to meets the trees requirements of these nutrients and can improve pollination and fruit set.

Keep in mind that although the olive is a hardy and adaptable tree with the ability to withstand harsh summers, severe drought and poor soils, without adequate cultural care tree performance and fruit yield will be poor.  Neglected  trees, however, can be rejuvenated and brought into production with severe pruning and ongoing management practices.

Comments 129

  1. Hi there,

    Thank you for the great article!

    I’d like to potentially plant some olive trees in my backyard in Brighton, Brisbane (4017).

    I’ve got a plot about 10m by 1.5m in size at the back of my house which backs up onto a fence.

    Would this be adequate room to plant 1-3 trees?

    The space gets plenty of sun from around 10am onwards but indirect sun prior to it.

    The soil is of good quality.

    Best,

    Daniel

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Daniel,
      With regular pruning you could grow olive trees in the space. I suggest you plant the low vigour variety Arbequina. These are grown commercially as hedge rows.
      I would plant 2 to 3 metres apart and once established prune a few time a year to keep them small.

  2. Hi everyone… I have an olive tree (12 years old) that has fruit-ed for the first time… It is abundant and lots of fruit… I’ll wait until the majority start to change to purple and darker…
    What I really need to know is – are there groups that I can contact in Brisbane that can assist in harvest
    1. pressing to oil
    2. jar-ing and preserving?

    Hope someone on here can assist
    brlawrie01@gmail.com

  3. Hi your website is fabulous so thank you for helping us all with your sound knowledge. My husband & I were given a well established potted 2metre Manzanillo olive tree for our 40th wedding anniversary . The tree is in a beautiful rustic & heavy, possibly cement pot of a kind ( 1/2 metre by 1/2 metre) & sits on our very hot & high northern verandah ( in summer ) exposed to all the elements on the Sunshine Coast . We have had curled up dry looking leaves with regular black spots ongoing since soon after receiving it. A local nursery prescribed natural products to heal it of disease. Sadly we are 2 years later & it’s doing very little & never looks healthy & happy . Today I trimmed all the dry tips and am about to try seasol. How often should we water it & how much water . When using seasol or whatever you recommend to provide nutrients how much of that should we use. I have a flourishing vege garden and think my gardening knowledge is moderate so am very sad to see this tree struggling. I don’t want to lose this irreplaceable gift

    1. Post
      Author

      Olive trees only have a few pest and diseases.. Lace bug infestation is very common and will cause the tree to look unhealty very quickly. Peacock spot and scale are minor problems but need to be treated. Follow the link for more info
      https://fruittreelane.com.au/olives/pest-and-disease-tips-for-the-home-olive-growers

      Olive trees in a pots will need regular watering 2 to 3 times per week. Seasol will give the tree a little boost but cannot be used to meet its full nutrient requirements. I suggest you use control release fertilser (osmocote etc) to feed the tree.. apply every 4 months at 3g per l of potting mix.

      Olives are very responsive to pruning so cut off any stems and leaves that ae looking unthrifty.

      all the best

      Fruittree lane

    2. I grow onion and garlic next to roses to halt black spot, after removing all contaminated leaves. Then I wash bicarb soda onto the stems. Do your research on this for olives …
      On orchids the nursery recommended Trifend spray to stop black fungus, and it’s used on pawpaw fruit, but then olives are eaten so you might not want to use chemicals.
      Just guesses.

  4. Hi,

    I am interested in growing olives for foilage for cut flowers.

    I’m curious to know how quickly the tree regrows it’s branches. Would a harvest of stems be every second year?
    And on a 3 metre tree how many stems a year would be expected.

    We live in the northern rivers, with clay soil so we would definitely mound up and plant on a slope to improve drainage.
    We are not interested in the fruit, could you recommend a variety suitable for my region and purpose?

    Thank you

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Amy,
      In the northern rivers, olive trees would thrive in the subtropical conditions. I would expect that you could havest foliage every year no problem.
      I suggest the you plant one of the fast growing italian varieties Frantoio, Correggiola, Leccino or Coratina. You may also want to consider Picual for it silvery grey/green foliage.
      I not sure how many stems you would get per tree but in general an olive tree will grow 1m taller and 1m wider in optimal growing conditions( fertile soil, adequate water etc).
      You will need to be vigilante to prevent olive lacebug infesting tree.. it is prevelant in warm climates and the cosmetic damage it causes on the leaf would be a issue for cut foliage.

      Cheers

      Greg

  5. Thank you for such an informative post!
    We live on the Gold Coast and plan to plant one Manzanillo and one Arbequina for cross pollination, plus one for fruit, one for oil.
    We have a standard suburban block so want to keep the trees within a reasonable height and diameter. They will be planted side by side, would you suggest a 3m distance between each tree to keep the trees around 3-4 meters high / wide? Will that still be ok for fruit production?

  6. Hi,
    I have an opportunity to dig up some 6 inch saplings that have grown from fallen fruit.
    Will these grow and produce or don’t bother? I don’t want to wait 7 years before finding out

  7. Hi there. Thanks for the informative responses to questions. Very helpful! I’m super keen on growing olive trees I’m my back garden in the back border along the fence line. I’d also like them to act as a screen to the neighbours property behind. Is there a variety that would work well as a hedge but would also be tall, grow vertically rather than out, and give fruit? Also do bats like olives? I don’t want to encourage them into the garden if possible. I’m in Noosa. Many thanks in advance.

    1. Hi Tracy,

      I have a couple of olive trees in the nature strip here on the Gold Coast and they’re thriving – really good crop and very tasty olives!

      We have a lot of fruit bats here, so I can say from experience, they don’t touch the olives at all. I’ve occasionally seen a bird try the ripe olives but they’re never keen for more.

      Cheers,

      1. Hi Mike – what is the variety you have? we live in Brighton and want have a tree that fruits. I know it’s hard in this climate but want to start with the right ones to give it a try.

  8. Hi there,
    I am looking at a property near Boonah that has 1600 frantoio and 1400 jumbo kalamata olive trees. All are overgrown (4+m) and affected by lace bug.
    How could I assess whether there is any hope for a viable olive fruit or oil crop from these trees?
    Pete

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Peter,

      Olive trees will respond to rejuvenation pruning and you could certainly restore the trees back to health but unfortunately Frantoio and Jumbo are marginal varieties and generally will not provide commercial crops in the Boonah area. They are both excellent varieties for colder Mediterranean type climates in southern Australia. I certainly would not look at purchasing the property as a potential commercial olive grove, unless you were willing to top-work the trees with a more reliable warm climate variety like Arbequina or Arecuzzo.

  9. Hi, Thankyou for great website!
    We live in Warwick QLD and would like to plant a line of olives along the front boundary of our property. In one spot of the line, water seems to sit under the ground for some reason- as the grass is very green there (even in this drought) and you say olives hate wet feet…..is there a variety I could plant in that particular wetter spot so I can still have my line of olives?? Any suggestions on how else I may combat this problem?

  10. Hi, looking at planting a olive tree(s) in Atherton Cairns QLD and wondering which variety would be best to plant for future fruiting. Thanks
    Feyza

    1. Post
      Author
      1. Hi thanks for the great information on your website,
        Just wondering if you can give me any tips on what is holding back one of the three of my olive trees.
        When we bought them we bought two manzanillo and two of the arbequina species, for cross pollination.
        We lost one of the trees early after transplanting in the ground but the other three have been happy now for the last three years,
        Recently, one of the trees of one species, not sure which though!, appears to have died off at the toplosing 1/3 of its height and foliage. The two taller ones have very green leaves and the “stunted?” one has silvery coloured leaves. We are located in the Ipswich region and with this current heatwave I have been giving my fruit trees and gardens extra water, where I normally would only give them water in the evening twice a week.
        This olive tree gets the same amount of water and fertiliser as the other two.
        It is now only about 4 feet tall without the deadwood. The other two are more like 8-9 feet tall.
        I thought someone may be able to give me a clue how to remedy this please?

        1. Post
          Author

          Hi Julienne,
          Fortunatly olive trees do not have too many pest and disease problems. The main two are olive lace bug ( a native insect and very common in QLD an NSW) and root rot which is not that common but becomes more prevelent in seasons of high rain fall.. please follow these links for more info https://fruittreelane.com.au/general/managing-phytophthora-root-rot-in-olive-trees/….. https://fruittreelane.com.au/olives/pest-and-disease-tips-for-the-home-olive-growers/

  11. Your page is great, thanks for sharing all the information.
    I live in Deception bay, I’m looking at my olive tree that I planted about 10 years ago, not sure of the type, it was purchased locally and was grafted. I have never had more than 3 olives on it which was about 3-4 years ago. My neighbour has one tree that had for 4 years produced between 3-15kgs of olives but none for the last two years.

    I last trimmed the tree about two years ago to about 3 metres height it is back to about 7m again and I’m about to trim it down again and I haven’t seen any flowers or fruit in this time same with the neighbour’s.

    Just wondering when olive trees flower in south east qld, so I know I won’t be affecting a possible fruiting season by the cut back.

    Cheers
    Greg

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Greg,

      Olives fruit in spring (Sept /Oct in SE QLD) on the tips of the shoots that were produced the previous summer. If you prune hard in the winter you will remove a lot ofthe fruiting would and thus miss out on fruit the following summer.
      If you want to prune but maximise flowering and fruit set I would wait for trees to flower in Spring and selectively prune the branches that are not carrying many flowers.

  12. Hi. I would like to grow an olive tree in a pot in Esk, Queensland. It will be in full sun.

    What variety do you recommend and how tall is it likely to grow.

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Sue,

      All varieties are suited to grow in a pot but they will not fruit very well. If you are keen to get some fruit I would plant Arbequina. If it is just for ornamental value Manzanillo, Frantoio of Picual would be good. The pot size will influence how big the tree grows. In a 100l pot you could grow a nice 2m tree

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Naren,
      I suggest planting the olive varieties that are more reliable in warmer climates these include Arbequina, Arecuzzo and Manzanillo.

  13. Thanks for this helpful post on growing in sub tropical climates. We have unexpectedly been given the opportunity to grow some fruiting trees as our yard is now in full sun (sadly as a result of a tree removal next door). we have been thinking about an olive so I’ve found this post and the questions from readers to be very helpful. Cheers!

  14. Hi i have a couple of st helena olive trees one six years old and the other three years old they are both very healthy trees and my neighbour has a ten year old healthy tree . I have mixed in manure mulch and have sugar cane mulch on top and give a few litres of water weekly but do not have any luck with getting the trees to flower with any of the three trees is there any tips

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Kevin,
      The St Helena olive is derived from the Italian variety Frantoio which was planted as a grove on St Helena Island around a century ago when it was a penal colony. It is a attractive, hardy tree but it can be difficult to get it to fruit reliably in warmer climates. Please see our blog on growing olive in warmer climates for some management tips to encourage flowering and fruit set. Fruiting http://fruittreelane.com.au/olives/growing-olives-in-southeast-queensland/.

      Arbequina, Arecuzzo and Manzanillo are the most reliable varieties for warmer climates

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Rowena,
      The most reliable varieties for the Eumundi area would be Arbequina and Arecuzzo. These two generally will fruit well in warmer climates. They both have a small fruit and are mainly used for oil production but the fruit can also be used for table fruit. If you would like a variety with larger fruit, I suggest Manzanillo would worth a try.

  15. Hi, looking at planting a olive tree(s) in Maleny QLD and wondering which variety would be best to plant for future fruiting. Thanks

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Kieren,
      The most reliable varieties for the Maleny area would be Arbequina and Arecuzzo. These both come into bearing very young… usually in the first year after planting. They are mainly used for oil production but the fruit, even though small, can be used for table fruit. If you would like a variety with larger fruit, I suggest Manzanillo would worth a try.

  16. Hi, we’re in Adelaide hills in South Australia. We are wondering what is the best/ smallest olive tree we can grow as a hedge (above our tiered retaining wall) , preferably wanting to keep it no more than 2 metres high & happy for it to have fruit. Are thinking of pleaching them to get a bit more light through & make it more formal looking.

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Naomi,
      If you want to maintain a 2 m high hedge and also get fruit I suggest planting Arbequina, Koronieki or Arbosana. They varieties are regarded as low vigour and are often grown commercialy in hedgerows and would be ideal for the home garden.

      1. Thanks for your reply! Some of those varities seem a little tall. What do you think of the ‘Garden Harvest’ dwarf olive trees, apparently they grow from 1-2.5m tall. Do you recommend them?

        1. Post
          Author

          Hi,
          “Garden Harvest” is the variety “Arbequina” it has just been given a promotional name “Garden Harvest” for marketing purposes. “Arbequina/Garden Harvest” is a low vigour tree and a very reliable bearer… it is a good tree for the home garden. With annual pruning it can be keep at around 1.5-3m….However, like other olive varieties if left unpruned it will eventually grow to around 6m

          It produces a small fruit. The fruit however is tasty and has a small seed so it is still good to pickle. The Spanish call it a snack olive.
          Commercially it is mainly used for oil and it is often grown in hedgerows.

  17. Hi and what a fabulous website. We live in Stanthorpe where the winters are quite cold and frosty and summers are generally moderate. We are about 950 meters above sea level. Soil is decomposed granite. What would be the best sort of tree to plant? We will be lining a 200 meter driveway either side and also a small grove. Thanks for your help.

    1. Post
      Author
      1. Hi Greg

        Many thanks for such great advice.

        I would like to plant an Olive Grove at Killarney.

        Do you think Killarney will work as well for fruit as the main Olive growing areas in the region?

        Could you give me an idea as to the best varieties to plant.

        Thank you.

        Regards

        Duncan

        1. Post
          Author

          Killarney has potential for producing commercial olive crops as long as there is adequate water to irrigate through a dry winter and the critical times of flowering and fruit set.
          Generally a commercial irrigated grove requires around 8-10 ML of useable water per Ha distributed throughout the year. The average rainfall in Killarney is 736mm of rainfall is equivalent of 7.3 ML per Ha but keep in mind a lot rain water is not usable as a fair percentage is lost as runoff.

          I suggest the oil varieties Arebquina Frantoio, Picual and coratina would be suitable for oil production. Manzanillo, Kalamata, Kollosus Kalamata would be good table varieties to try.

  18. I live in Brisbane and have two St Helena olive trees, living in a 1 metre raised garden bed, that are some 5 metres high by 4 metres wide. They are 10 years old and very healthy looking. They get full sun. They have never flowered. When would I expect to see flowers? After all this time, is there any hope of them flowering?

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Geoff,
      The St Helena olive is derived from the Italian variety Frantoio which was planted on St Helena Island around a century ago when it was a penal colony. It is a attractive, hardy tree but it can be difficult to get it to fruit reliably in warmer climates. Please see our blog on growing olive in warmer climates for some management tips in trying to encourage flowering and fruit set. Fruiting http://fruittreelane.com.au/olives/growing-olives-in-southeast-queensland/.

      Arbequina, Arecuzzo and Manzanillo are the most reliable varieties for warmer climates

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi,
      As far as I know bats are not a big problem with olives. Olive fruit straight off the tree are quite bitter and this is a deterrent to animals. Some birds, however, have developed a taste for the fruit.

  19. Hi, we’re wanting to plant a small grove in the Dalby area (black soil & winter frosts) what variety would you suggest?

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Gina,

      I suggest the Italian Varieties Frantoio, Coratina, Leccino or the Spanish variety Picual. These are all hardy, cold tolerant trees that produce a small to medium size fruit. They are regarded has high quality oil varieties but the fruit can also be used for table fruit. If you want to plant a variety that produces a larger table fruit Hojiblanco, Kolossus or Californian Queen (UC13A6) would be suitable.

  20. Hi,
    I am so excited to have found your site filled with incredible information that I have been searching for.
    I’m looking to start a small olive orchard for oil production for our own home use – we live in the Jiggi Valley just inland from Lismore in Northern NSW. We are on a rocky slope but have clay soils. A producer in the Casino area said I should plant Koroneiki – would that work? Or what would you suggest for maximum oil extraction?

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Janet,
      Koroneiki is a good choice for your area but I would also plant Arbequina and Arecuzzo. I suggest 50% Koroneiki, 25% Arbequina, 25% Arecuzzo or someting similar.

  21. We were given an olive tree, it has been in the ground now for 4 years and has grown to over 3 meters tall and the same width and doesn’t show any signs of flowering. How can we tell what type of tree we have?

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi David,

      Most olive trees look similar and it is difficult to tell the difference between them by looking at the foliage. Trees are usually identified by the fruit size and shape in conjunction with leaf characteristics.

  22. Hello,

    Very insightful page. Thanks for all the tips. We live in Brisbane and are looking to plant a solo olive tree in our garden. I have read previous comments and I’m guessing a Arbequina is the way to go? We’re not overly concerned about yield to be honest, we are looking more for a feature tree and something beautiful to look at.

    Thanks 🙂

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Teija,
      All olive varieties thrive in warm Brisbane climate but only a few will fruit well. If you want the trees to fruit i would plant Arbequina or Manzanillo but if you just want a nice fast growing tree you could plant the Italian varieties Frantoio or Coratina. Good soil drainage is an vary important factor in summer rainfall climates like Brisbane and I would suggest planting the tree on a mound to avoid any potential water logging issues.

  23. I am looking at growing an olive tree in a courtyard . I live in Ashby near YAMBA in Northern NSW. I would like to know a variety that does not grow too big and has pretty foliage . I would like it as a feature in my courtyard. What type would you recommend ? The soil is clay/ sand. The yard is north facing and sheltered.

    1. Post
      Author

      I would plant one of the spanish varieties Hojiblanco, Manzanillo or Picual. They are all attractive landscape trees of medium vigor and they produce medium to large fruit.

  24. I live in Woodford and have 3 olive trees, one being St Helena, 2 others unknown variety.
    St Helena has beared 1 olive. Only tree which has. Trees are about 5 yrs old. St Helena is 1.5m high, other 2 are 2m high.
    They all are planted in clay/topsoil. Any suggestions to successfully have them bear fruit please.
    Should we dig them out and place gravel in hole before replanting in same hole?
    I am lost with these

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Ray,
      If the trees are healthy I suggest that the lack of fruit is due to the variety not being suited to the climate.
      It is difficult to get olives to fruit well in warm winter climates. Arbequina, Arecuzzo and Manzanillo are generally more reliable than most.
      Placing gravel in the hole will not improve the growth. If you want to improve the drainage you will need to plant the trees on a mound. There is no problem digging the trees in winter and replanting on a mound of good sandy loam soil.
      Improving drainage and adding manure and lime will help with the health and growth of the tree but it may not improve the fruit set. This is more to do with variety selection.

  25. HI I HAVE 5 OLIVE TREES FOR THE LAST 18 YEARS AND ONLY ONE HAS GIVEN ME I ONE LIVE I LIVE IN BRISBANE SOUTH SIDE I USE TO HAVE IN BIG POTSAND I WAS GETING FRUIT ONCE I PLANTED IN GROUND FOR 18 YEARS I GOT NOTHING THE Y WERE GRAFTED AS CALAMATA OLIVES FROM ADELAIDE I HA VE USE ALL DIFERENT FERTALISES NOTHIN WORK DO YOU HAVE ANY SUGESTIONS?MY NAME IS NICK

  26. Hi

    My quite young St Helena olive (1.5m tall growing in the ground on south side of Buderim) is having pest issues. The green leaf colour is speckled with light dots on the upper side that eventually turn rusty brown when infestation increases. Under the leaf, are tiny brown and black dots. I was going to attach a photo but I couldn’t make that happen.
    Your thoughts would be gratefully appreciated.
    Thank you
    Jackie

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Jackie,

      This is caused by olive lace bug. It is very common and it is not difficult control. The tree will need two sprays 7 to day days apart. The first spray will kill the live insects under the leaf the second spray will kill the young ones that hatch out after the first spray. A simple pyrethrum spray is very effective. A can of household flyspray can be used (they all contain synthetic pyrethrum) for more info follow the link to our blog
      http://fruittreelane.com.au/olives/pest-and-disease-tips-for-the-home-olive-growers/

  27. We are living at the Fraser Coast and i would like to plant some Olive Trees in our Backyard. We have sandy loam, dry winters without frost and in summer up to 40°C. Which variety would be best for planting ?

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Tom,

      The Fraser Coast does not really get enough winter chilling for most olive varieties. All varieties will grow well the region but they wont necessarily fruit. I suggest you try the few varieties that seem to fruit more reliably in the warmer climates these include Arbequina, Arecuzzo, Koroneiki and Manzanillo. For more info please see our blog regarding growing olives in warmer climates http://fruittreelane.com.au/olives/growing-olives-in-southeast-queensland

  28. Hi there. I was wondering if you could possibly send me an email so I could send you a picture of the olive tree my partner gifted to me. I’ve always wanted one but am unsure of what type it is & would like to do some research on how to look after her. She’s not so hardy and I’d love to help her out a bit so I can plant her in our new yard. Thanks 🙂

  29. Hi
    I just moved 2 Helena olive trees from my back yard (with limited sun) to my front yard (full sun ¾ of the day) they were growing but reasonably slowly at the rear hence the relocation (approx 2.5 years old and barely reached a 1.8m height) Since the move they seemed to be stressed and leaves are becoming dried out. Anything I should do to (location brisbane) – appreciate your feedback
    Cheers

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Dennis,
      Olives generally transplant well ( specifically in winter) but moving them in the peak of summer is risky.. I would prune the trees back, removing the dried out stems and give the tree plenty of water until it recovers. If possible cover the tree with shade cloth until Winter.

  30. Hi,

    I have a Frantoio tree in a pot which I would like to plant out. I live in Dayboro, SE QLD and have rich, red, fertile soil. Would I be best to mound and plant into that rather than into the ground? Also, I notice the leaves have a type of rust on them, and when I turn them over they are a little bit sticky. Is this a type of lace bug? If so, what should I treat with please?

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Lisa,
      If you can, it is always good to plant on a mound in higher rainfall areas. The pest is olive lace bug it is easily managed with Pyrethrum insect spray. On a small tree you can use a household can of fly spray (they all contain synthetic Pyrethrum. You will need to spray twice with the second spray 10-14 days after the first. This will kill any crawlers that hatch out after the first spray. See our blog on managing olive pest for more info http://fruittreelane.com.au/olives/pest-and-disease-tips-for-the-home-olive-growers/

  31. I live in Ormiston, south east Qld and want to plant an olive tree near a west facing wall, between a pool fence. The soil is red and clay, do I need to mound with sandy loam and what type of tree would be best? What size should I look for? ( to cover western window quickly) and how fast will it grow?

    1. Post
      Author

      I would definitely mound. Poor drainage and saturated soils are very detrimental to olive trees. I would plant a one of the fast growing Italian varieties Frantoio or Coratina. In the right conditions they will grow around 1.3 m taller and 1.3 m wider per year.

  32. Hi I am looking to plant a few olive trees on our acreage at Cambooya can you suggest what olive tree would be best for our black soil, frosts & hot summers. Thank you

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Shane,
      For large table fruit varieties I suggest Manzanillo, Picual and UC13A6 or Barouni. I would amend the soil with organic matter/ manure and lime and plant the trees on a mound.

  33. What are the best olive trees to grow in the Sunshine Beach area. Not on the beachfront but a street behind. We would like a tree that is more for shade and easy care than for fruit.

    1. Post
      Author
  34. Morning,
    I’m considering planting a small grove as a driveway border at a property near Yangan. I’m not overly concerned by yield so am curious if planting a single variety would work best or a mix of multiple trees? Which would you recommend? There would likely be 10-15 trees on each side.

  35. We bought a property about a year ago with about 100 Olive Trees. Have no idea what sort they are, but we’ve had no fruit or flowers as they are looking quite unhealthy. They are planted on a hill, the soil has clay and is soggy in the wet and dry and cracked in the dry. They used to get crops of olives in the past. The leaves look like they have a fungus on them and the branches has a green hair like moss?? Thinking we need to hard prune to a V, remove diseased branches, add some calcium/boran?? and get some manure compost happening… How do I do this if the soil is really hard? Can I manure around it with mulch and water it in? (is horse manure ok? Lime to trunck after pruning? Have I missed anything…… I just read all your posts, the only thing I knew about olives was that they were on my cheese platter before this move HELP :):) Cheers

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      Author
  36. I have about 70 olive trees about 15 years old on a property we bought 12 months ago
    not sure of the variety believe there are 3 different ones
    they have not been looked after very well
    some had fruit about 2 months ago
    advice on looking after them moving forward would be great
    cheers steve

  37. Hello,

    I have a row of 30 St Helena olive trees, as a feature in our garden in Brisbane. They are now approx. 6 years old and 4-5m high. Due to our clay soil we planted them in a mound of soil. Now that they are so big, they are falling over in gusty storms. Their roots don’t seem very deep and planting in a raised mound seems to have made them less secure in the ground. Any advice appreciated to save our trees.
    Regards
    Cassandra

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Cassandra,

      Poor tree anchorage is often caused by poor nursery practice that caused either:
      1. J Rooting (the young tree roots were left to bend upwards when the trees were potted in the nursery)
      2. Root Circling (trees were left in round pots for too long causing the root system to circle the inner wall of the pot)
      When planting it is essential that the tree roots are checked carefully. If the root system appears congested and circling the roots can be lightly cut and teased out to ensure they spread laterally and provide good anchorage.

      Hard compacted rocky and clay soils not allowing the roots to penetrate may also be part of the problem.

      It seems you have two options to alleviate the problem.
      1. Hard Prune.
      Open and reduce the size of the tree canopy. Opening the canopy to allow airflow through the tree will reduce wind resistance. Pruning the trees back to around 2m and letting the tree regrow to around 4m will keep the canopy smaller and more able to cope with the winds. Olives are very adaptable to pruning and maintaining a smaller open tree is very common practice.
      2. Bracing.
      Use cables in 3 positions around the trunk to brace the tree and anchor it to the ground… unfortunately the bracing will have to remain for the life of the tree.

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      Author

      Hi Wayne,
      Pruning olive trees can be undertaken any time of the year but commercially trees are pruned after harvest in Autumn or Winter. The main objective of pruning mature olive trees is

      1. Reduce the height to make the tree more manageable and easier to harvest. Trees are generally best kept to a height of 3- 4 metres. Tall vertical branches are usually less productive as most of the fruit is formed on the lateral branches on the periphery of the canopy.

      2. Open the canopy to allow good light penetration and airflow.

      3. To remove any dead and diseased branches.

      4. To stimulate new lateral growth for future cropping.

      Keep in mind olive trees fruit on the tips of the shoots produced the previous summer. If you prune the canopy too hard in Autumn you will limit the fruit production for the following season but it will result in good shoot production and subsequent fruiting for the future.

      In general, once an olive is trained into the open vase shape it probably only needs pruning every couple of years and mainly to reduce the height of the tree by removing the tall vertical branches.

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      Author

      Hi Thomas,

      The Arbequina photo was taken when the tree was around 6 yrs old with a yield of 70kg. It was in our research grove near Esk in south-east Queensland.

      cheers

      Greg

  38. I live in Brisbane and would like to plant an olive tree in a pot as a feature tree that I plan on keeping less than 2m in height. I was going to use a wine barrel type of pot, how large your what volume would you recommend using?

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      Author

      Hi Jo,
      The pot size will regulate the tree growth. A pot that holds 200 to 300 litres would enable the tree to grow to a nice full tree with a thick trunk at 2m height. If you want the tree to produce fruit I would plant the Arbequina as they fruit well in pots.

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      Author

      Hi Alain,
      Olive fruit production in pots will be limited as olives are produced on the end of the shoots that were produced the previous summer. So if the pot restricts growth and hence the tree canopy size, there will not be many fruiting sites available.

      The best varieties to try in large pots for fruit production are Arbequina and Arecuzzo as these tend to produce fruit when the trees are relatively small.

  39. Hi, I planted a St Helena in a pot about 18 months ago. It has grown to around 2.5m tall but the trunk diameter at the base is still very thin, about 2cm and thinner at breast height. Is there anything I can do to promote a thicker trunk and get some stability?

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      Author

      Hi Jope,

      Some olive tree can grow a bit whippy when they are young. I suggest that you prune the tree back at around 1.5m and allow 3 to 4 main scaffold branches to develop. This will encourage the lateral spread of the canopy and will help thicken up the main trunk.

  40. Hi, we are considering planting an olive tree as we love the foliage. The actual olives are not what we would be focussing on. Would the fruit attract the fruit bats? We are at Redland Bay. Cheers Judy

  41. Informative site and posts thank you! I have red clay soil in Brisbane. I’ll find some of the species you recommended – when’s the best time if year to plant and should i dig in some sandy loam ? Cheers Sarah

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      Author

      Hi Sarah,
      Spring and Autumn would be the optimal times but in a mild climate like Brisbane you can plant any time of the year. Rather than dig sandy loam into clay soil, I would mound the sandy loam on top of the ground and plant the trees on the mound. This way you will ensure that you will have good drainage and the roots will always have enough oxygen. Poorly drained clay soil and wet summers can be problematic for olive trees in Brisbane.

      Cheers

      Greg

  42. I have just brought a home on Russell Island in Brisbane which has a magnificant tall Olive tree. Apparently it used to fruit but has not bore anything for a couple of years. I know very little about these trees and the previous owner said that he was ‘going to chop it out’. Any thoughts on whether it could possibly be saved? It is a fanatastic looking tree and it seems a shame to get rid of it.

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      Author

      Hi Vicki,
      Tall overgrown trees often carry a lot of unproductive wood and are harder to manage for pest and disease issues.
      If you intended to bring the tree back into production I would give it a hard rejuvenation prune. This is the traditional way to manage older olive trees and it is the reason why they can be productive for hundreds of years. The technique involves cutting the main scaffold branches back to a height of around 2.5 m. This will result in a lot of healthy new shoots developing and a complete rejuvenation of canopy over the next growing season. The following year you should start to see some fruit production.

      If you decide to go with a hard prune you will need to paint the trunk with a whitewash to prevent sunburn.

      Sunburn is best prevented by waiting until winter to hard prune trees and/or by painting the exposed trunk and limbs with a lime based whitewash as soon as they are pruned. Lime white wash can be made with 1000ml water, 350g, hydrated lime and 100g table salt. Add the salt and water together and slowly stir in the lime until a consistency similar to paint is achieved. Add more water if necessary.
      Paint the limes till a good white layer of protection is evident. A couple of coats may be necessary. The white wash is not permanent. It will protect the trees for the summer months and then slowly fade over time.
      Take caution when using hydrated lime as it is quite caustic. When handling the lime, avoid contact with skin and eyes and avoid breathing the dust (wear suitable gloves and eye/face protection).

      Cheers

      Greg

    2. Hi, we live on Bribie island and would like to plant olive trees purely as screening, fruit yield is not important, just a hardy quick growing variety would suit.
      Please advise best suited variety please?

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        Author

        Hi Rudi,

        I suggest one of the fast growing Italian varieties Correggiola, Frantoio or Coratina. These will all make excellent screening plants. Of the trees we have available at the moment correggiola would be the tallest and bushiest.

        Cheers

        Greg

  43. Hi
    Call me crazy if you like but 2 years ago I planted 3 Arbequina olive trees in Atherton. Our winters are quite cold. The trees are doing well under irrigation and are now about 2 m tall. I am looking forward to the possibility of the fruiting next year. Will keep you posted
    Jane

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      Author

      Hi Jane, Thanks for the input. We look forward to hear how the Arbequina trees perform in the Tablelands. Hopefully, they will start to bear this season.

      Cheers

      Greg

  44. Hi,we are thinking about planting a few trees in Maleny just for family use.
    It has quiet cool short winter. What varieties would you recommend?
    Thanks
    Selena

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      Author

      Hi Selena,
      Olives will grow well in Maleny as long as they have plenty of light and the soil drainage is good. To ensure adequate draining during summer, I would plant the trees on a raised mound around 50 -80cm.
      Getting the trees to fruit in the climate may be a little bit tricker but the best varieties to try would be Arbequina or Manzanillo.

      Cheers

      Greg

    2. Hi Greg,
      I live west of Taroom on cattle property… I am wanting to plant a row of olive trees for a screen along side a main road. Pretty good light black soil, that i have carted and raised up, good bore water, temps range from 1 to 40°c. But rarely frost as we are high enough. Not wanting the fruit as such but fast initial growing. How far should i plant them apart to screen out but not be too overgrown, which variety more suitable and when can I plant out.. as i am super keen ??? Thanks greg

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        Author

        Hi Jo,
        I suggest planting the faster growing, hardy Italian varieties Coratina or Frantoio. These make a great screen. You can space them from 1.5m to 3m apart. They will form a continuous screen at this range of spacing but it will fill in a bit quicker at the closer spacing.
        cheers
        Greg

  45. I live in Brisbane and would like to start growing an olive tree(s), however the soil on my block is poor. Very rocky.
    Which soil type do Olives prefer?

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      Author

      Olive trees prefer well-drained, fertile soils with a neutral to alkaline pH around 7-8. They will survive exceptionally well in poor, shallow, low nutrient soils but growth will be limited. It is best to improve poor soils by adding manure, lime and compost. If the topsoil is shallow or poorly drained build a mound by importing quality sandy loam soil, add manure and lime and plant the tree on the mound.

      Cheers
      Dr Greg O’Sullivan

  46. I have a few olive trees should I cut all the thick branches going up the centre to keep them under control or would I loose too many olives

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      Author

      Hi Steve,
      Productive olive trees are best kept to a height of around 3-5m. This makes it easier to harvest the fruit and manage any pest and diseases. Removing the upright centre branches is the best way to reduce the height of the tree and it is an essential practice in commercial olive groves. It is best if you prune the vertical branch at its base where it joins the main trunk rather than just pruning flat across the top of the canopy….this will prevent unwanted regrowth occurring at the top of the tree. Although some olives are produced on the vertical branches, the bulk of the olives are produced on the periphery of the canopy on the end third of horizontal branches. Rather than reducing yield, you will find in the long term that yield will increase as the tree’s energy will be transferred to the more productive horizontal branches. Some growers combine height pruning with harvesting by removing the tall vertical branches at harvest time and picking the fruit from the branches on the ground.

      Cheers

      Dr Greg O’Sullivan

  47. What variety of Olive tree grows the largest fruit ? I live in Tweed Heads QLD/NSW border
    Thank you Gabby

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      Author

      Hi Gabby,
      The olive variety that produces the largest fruit is the Italian variety Oliva di Cerignola (Bella di Cerignola). However, it is known in Australia mainly as “Jumbo Kalamata”….it is not related to the Greek Kalamata variety. The fruit is very impressive and weighs around 12-15 grams. The trees are very difficult to propagate making them hard to find in nurseries.

      Other large fruiting olive varieties suitable for Tweed Heads include Californian Queen( UC13A6), Barouni, Hojiblanco, Kolossus Kalamata and Manzanillo.

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Jasmine,
      The main characteristics used to identify olive varieties are leaf size/shape, fruit size/shape and seed shape. Visit the Australis Plants website to see images of most of the olive varieties grown in Australia

  48. Great site. I have a tough spot in a western facing position where I need a tree I can keep to 4m . It must have a single trunk and be evergreen. As I already grow a large number of fruit trees on my suburban block (orange, mandarin, lime, custard apple, jaboticabi, guava, cherry guava) I am wondering if I could grow an olive, or if I will live to curse myself? The comments suggest St Helena grow huge here in Brisbane. Is there another cultivar that would be better for me in terms of height? Alison

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      Author

      Hi Alison,
      If left unpruned most olive varieties will grow to around 6 to 9 metres tall with a spread of around 5m. In olive groves and backyards, however, trees are usually kept to a height of around 3.5 to 4.5m with annual pruning. This makes the trees easier to manage and means you don’t have to use a ladder when harvesting.

      With regular pruning the tree would not get too tall but olive trees can also be cut back very hard if you want to rejuvenate a tree that was allowed to get too big.

      St Helena is derived from the Italian variety Frantoio and it is a vigorous fast growing variety in warm climates. For a smaller growing tree with less vigour I would plant Arbequina or Manzanillo

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      Author
  49. I’ve got several olive trees on Macleay island. They are very tall and overgrown and I want to prune them to reduce height and produce more olives.
    Can I safely prune the trees in January or should I wait till the cooler weather? What is the best month to prune?

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      Author

      Hi Dave,
      Olive trees can be pruned any time of the year but there is a high risk of trunk sunburn if mature trees are pruned back hard in summer. Sunburn can be prevented by painting the trees with white wash,… see our blog on sunburn in olives . In general the best time to prune olives trees back hard is in Autumn or Winter.

      1. hello david,
        my name is john i have 4xhelena olive trees
        i live in glenwood qld just wondering moist soil
        stoney soil which is on a slite hill first timer
        growing olive tree,s

        kind regards john ferguson

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi John,
      Generally, mid-season varieties will be ready to harvest in Brisbane in March. Early season varieties may be Feb. If harvesting green ripe, harvest time would be a few weeks earlier.

  50. your site is very helpful, just wondering if you know what cultivar the Helena variety is from that I have seen in a few nurseries?
    I have 1 peciul, 3x Helenas and another 4 which I think are different varieties. when purchased they just had olive tree on the tag- no variety written on it.
    thanks,
    JB

    1. Post
      Author

      Hi Jennifer,
      We found in our olive variety trial where we compared the performance of 70 varieties of olives that the selection we collected from St Helena island was identical to the Italian variety Frantoio.

  51. Your page is very helpful thank you , But it does not tell me the time of the year the fruit is good to pick in south queensland ; Sunshine coast region Ex: April , May or later Winter month for exemple ?.
    thank you Ch

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      Author

      Olives in South East Queensland start to reach black ripening around late Feb/ March depending on the variety. Harvest for green ripe olives is usually around a month earlier. A general rule of thumb is once a few of the green olives on the tree start to get a purplish blush the olives are ready to pick for green olive pickling. For black ripe, pickling it is best to wait until most of the olives have started to turn black but don’t leave it too long as they can start to get a bit soft and drop of the tree.

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